Spinner's Alphabet: What begins with I?

By Amelia © June 1, 2026

I
is for indigo. Natural dyeing is so much fun, I even grew indigo and used my crop to dye some handspun skeins. It's a great treat to know I can make my fiber or handspun blue from a plant, with shades from rich blue to soft blue.

The biggest surprise to me was when I put some already acid-dyed skeins in an indigo bath - they came out blue, not the expected green (over yellow) and purple (over red). My dye bath was a dux-redux bath, which a chemist told me, meant it contained a dye remover! So, it removed the acid dye as it laid the indigo dye on the skeins. Although I would have enjoyed those colors, I was pleased to get a nice blue on my soft squishy skeins.

I also dyed fiber and a few tea towels - so it's up to you to decide at which phase to dye.

One of the things to be careful about if you do grow indigo, is to ensure there is no Japanese knotweed growing in the area. They will cross-pollinate and your next crop of indigo from cross-pollination will not produce dye. I ran into this with one crop, but luckily had seeds from the previous crop still, so my next crop succeeded. Sourcing seeds can also be difficult, the source I had is no longer producing them.

There's also "instant indigo", the prepared dye, which I've seen friends get good results with. One friend had an annual indigo party where we would experiment with different preparations (cake, instant, powder, dried leaves, fresh leaves) on different fibers (cotton, silk, wool). You can see some of the results in the picture with skeins on the drying rack.

Have you tried indigo? How'd it go?

The other I that came to mind was ingeo, one of the wave of manufactured fibers from different sources. Ingeo is made from corn. It's a bit squeaky with a bit of shine. I never tried it in blends, actually I never got past making sample skeins with it. I'd be curious to hear what your experience with it was/is. There's no longer any in my stash of fiber or handspun.

What's your I?

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© June 1, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/

How are Skein Appearance and Preparation Evaluated?

By Amelia © May 25, 2026

This post continues my review of fair judging steps when evaluating handspun skeins. As you may recall from the first post, the forms used to evaluate handspun skeins typically have these categories:
  1. General overall appearance.
  2. Preparation for exhibit — clean, properly skeined and tied, of listed yardage and/or weight, blocked if necessary.
  3. Suitability of fiber to yarn — amount of twist, diameter of yarn
  4. Technique — twist evenly executed, appropriate plying twist, diameter consistent throughout, structurally durable, yarn designs consistent, dyeing/blending consistent
  5. Suitability of yarn to use — direction of twist, amount of twist, diameter of yarn, handle of yarn, appropriate number of plies.
  6. Finished Execution – originality, creativity, complexity.

I gave an overview of the process in my earlier post, How is Handspun Yarn Judged at Fairs?. In this post we will look at the first two items, general overall appearance and preparation for exhibit. Come back for later posts as I work down the form.

First, I group the skeins into the categories that fair uses; some fairs divide by spinning tool, some by yarn structure, some by fiber content. Then I take a category and dry-run a few entries; that is, I evaluate but take no permanent notes to get a feel for that county's spinners. Once I'm warmed up, I choose a random skein in a category to start with - in fact, I might have the scribe, if I'm assigned one, hand me skeins one by one.

I take the skein, look for its information tag, and read that. Anything the spinner can tell me is useful - first off, the premium book may have requirements, but in particular any background on why they chose to spin that fiber, how they made the choices they did in spinning it, and what they might use it for is all super useful but all but the last are seldom required by the premium book. I do check for any required information; some require yardage, fiber content, intended use, and perhaps even a swatch. All of that provided information is part of general appearance. It also feeds well into the other categories on the score card.

At this point I take a look at the skein to fully evaluate the first category, general appearance. A tidily wound skein with sufficient skein ties (4 is usually enough, maybe 3 on a small skein - or the number the premium book requires). The ties must not distract from the skein - I'm embarrassed to say the first skeins I entered had thick white cotton ties (oops) but later ones would use lengths of the yarn itself, unplied to use as little of the handspun as possible in the ties. Basically, anything that does not distract me from the skein is fine. The skein should also have no odor or dirt. I do not grade on the color of the fiber as my personal preference in color choices only comes to play in assigning Judge's Choice to my favorite among all the entries.

I tend to write notes on the feedback card, generally positive and supportive with gentle correction, but avoid assigning points right away. I'll make notes all down the card and once done, assign points as appropriate for each category.

Some of the appearance items apply to the next category, preparation for exhibit. Here I focus on what the premium book required and what information was provided. Having extra information is a plus here. If yardage is provided, I have to do at least a rough check that it's in the ballpark - I will be more exact in a smaller fair but if there are a huge number of entries, I have to estimate with a partial count.

This category says "blocked if necessary" which means I do need to know how the yarn will be used to determine if blocking makes sense for that use. Knitting yarns generally wouldn't be blocked unless they were singles or were purposely over- or under-plied; weaving warp should be blocked unless the notes call out the loom used as a rigid heddle; weaving weft might be blocked if it was high-twist singles, though that twist can also be managed on the weaving bobbin; crochet yarn tends to be similar to knitting yarn. I have explored several other yarn crafts and so tend to apply what I know about them to the yarn I'm presented with - if you have one you're interested in, drop me a comment and I'll reply there. But I'd say those 3 uses are 98% of the entries I've seen over the years.

How do I know if a skein has been blocked? Generally if a skein is balanced or blocked, it hangs in an open O when it is opened and hung from your hand. So if it twists on itself more than 2 times, it likely has not been blocked. I can check the yarn itself, if it is plied, for some elasticity - wool will have a little bounce, if balanced and not blocked. I can also twist the plied yarn more and less to see if that open O is a balanced skein or not. Plied yarn is balanced at the point where the plied yarn is thickest - so if adding twist or removing twist makes it thicker, then the skein was not balanced and thus was blocked. Singles can be a little more tricky - sure, if the skein of singles hangs in an open O, it must have been blocked. But if it does not, the question is was it blocked but not to straightness. Typically then I check the twist angle in the single. Usually if the twist angle is more than 15 ° but the skein only twists a few times, it's been blocked.

One last comment about blocking - another finishing that has a similar effect is rough finishing. The only effective difference is that I can undo blocking by rewetting or resteaming the skein, but I can't unfelt it after rough finishing.

Whew! alot goes in to those two seemingly straight-forward categories. And yet, even the later categories will inform my evaluation of these two. So the form is never complete until I come to the end and review all the notes I've written on the skein, to assign points as directed by that fair's evaluation form.

I'd be curious to know how you prepare skeins for the fair, and what information you like to include with your submission, regardless of what the fair requires.

Check back in a few weeks for the next post where we will tackle evaluating technique in handspun yarn.

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© May 25, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/

Spinner's Alphabet: What Begins With H?

By Amelia © May 18, 2026

close-up of Hawser yarn skein
H
is for Hawser yarn construction. This is a fascinating 4-strand yarn structure used in rope, and made popular by Sarah Anderson's The Spinner's Book of Yarn Designs: Techniques for Creating 80 Yarns (Storey Publishing, LLC, 2013) (affiliate link, thanks!).

To make a Hawser yarn, you spin singles Z, ply Z (crazy I know), then finish by plying S the 2 Z-plied 2-plies. It looks like a 2-ply yarn in the result from a distance, but up close it looks a bit like a sloppy 4-ply (ok, mine did!). Fun/chaotic to spin and a great way to get out of my "ply S" rut!

To help myself understand the steps involved, I like to draw a flow chart for the structure. All the letters are spinning direction, and if lines lead into a letter, it's plying those lines in the direction stated. Here's my Hawser chart:

chart of Hawser construction

The main thing to understand is that the goal is balance, but along the way it can get very unbalanced - plying Z-spun singles Z for example - that's crazy yarn! But the final S twist here is to bring everything back into balance. The Hawser 2-ply look is best served by that Z-ply step making the yarn look plied when under tension - but when you relax it, it curls on itself like crazy trying to find balance. So you want a good plying setup with a sturdy kate, and if you can let those Z-plied bobbins rest a while it will help.

It can be fun to break the "rules" on spinning - try spinning an S single. It definitely feels different! You'd think you can't ply S and Z spun singles together. As a 2-ply, it's really elastic, but as a 3- or 4-ply it makes a very durable yarn to have one single spun opposite to the others. That's in Sarah's book too!

deck of cards from Sarah Anderson's book
Here's a peek at the deck from The Spinner’s Book of Yarn Design by Sarah Anderson (Storey Publishing, LLC, 2013). I travel with the deck so whenever I want to try something new, I can shuffle it and draw a random one to challenge myself.

I had no other H's ... What's your spinner's H? What explorations have you made in yarn constructions?

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© May 18, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/

How is handspun yarn judged at fairs and shows?

By Amelia © May 11, 2026

You've done your best, filled out the paperwork, and submitted your entry. How is it graded? Spinning isn't a multiple choice quiz, after all.

Some fairs use the Danish system, where your yarn is judged against a set of standards and awarded a ribbon on its own merits. Others use a best-one-wins system, where skeins compete against each other with the best one winning, then second, and possibly third place entries.

My home county when I was entering fairs used the Danish system, and the then-NwRSA (now NwSFA) judging scorecards. These have been developed by hand spinners for handspun, so they are more applicable than the more generic craft scoresheets used in other parts of the fair.

The Black Sheep Gathering premium book from that time sums up the NwRSA judging criteria nicely:

  1. General overall appearance.
  2. Preparation for exhibit — clean, properly skeined and tied, of listed yardage and/or weight, blocked if necessary.
  3. Suitability of fiber to yarn—amount of twist, diameter of yarn
  4. Technique — twist evenly executed, appropriate plying twist, diameter consistent throughout, structurally durable, yarn designs consistent, dyeing/blending consistent
  5. Suitability of yarn to use—direction of twist, amount of twist, diameter of yarn, handle of yarn, appropriate number of plies.
  6. Finished Execution – originality, creativity, complexity.

I've had the good fortune to judge at several different county fairs over the years - the only drawback is that I need to be unfamiliar with the local spinners' work, which really curbs my attendance at area spin-ins. Each judge develops their own approach to evaluating the entries, while adhering to the common knowledge of what spinning entails.

I like to divide the skeins up by the categories that the fair or show uses; some divide by fiber, some by structure, and some by spinning device. Then I typically start with the category with the most entries and evaluate several skeins without assigning any points to get a feel for the entries at that fair. Once warmed up, I can go back and complete their evaluations then continue on to the remaining entries in that category.

I always check that a fair has an evaluation form appropriate for handspun yarn, and the premium book requirements. If the premium book is missing things that impact many entries, I give feedback to the fair/show organizers so they can add requirements such as stating intended use. If that particular key item is missing, I do the best I can with what I have in front of me.

Each skein is evaluated in full against the feedback form; I work through it from top to bottom though sometimes as I get more familiar with a skein I go back to earlier categories on the form to add more detail and potentially adjust a score - usually up, not down. I know the effort spinning takes, and asking to have your work evaluated takes a certain kind of braveness that I prefer to encourage and honor.

Yes, it takes a while to evaluate each skein. I usually pack a lunch and plan on a long day. I get there before the building is unlocked so I can organize and start even before my scribe arrives. I off-load as many tasks as possible - reskeining skeins is quickly taught to a non-spinner volunteer so they can tidy the skein up after I've opened it for evaluation. And each and every feedback form is packed with positive and gently corrective feedback, and a line at the bottom with my overall joy in their entry, in whichever form it took for that particular skein and the notes the spinner provided. If you've entered a fair I've judged at, I hope you've seen that feedback and found it useful or at least appropriate. I've been told by some that they appreciated the detail but have no intention to ever spin the "perfect" skein. I honor that, and recognize that handspun yarn has character we cannot copy in commercial yarn.

Have you entered a fair? I highly recommend it, getting feedback from another experienced spinner outside your local circle can open you to a new view on your yarn. Be sure to provide the skein's backstory along with your skein when you submit it. No fair I've seen stops you from adding information beyond what is required by the premium book. And I welcome your questions on fair entries. I sure had fun when I was entering - trying to enter all the categories was often my goal, and fit well with my love of technique while it gave me ample opportunity to stretch my tool skills and explore yarn structures. And lots and lots of project ideas, a.k.a. intended uses for my yarn.

I'd be interested in writing more about the categories on the form if you are interested. Let me know! If you don't want your feedback to show up as a comment on the blog, use the Contact page instead - thanks.

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© May 11, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/

Spinner's Alphabet: What Begins With G?

By Amelia © May 4, 2026

G
is for Grist. That should be a four-letter word, given how much practice it takes to spin to a target grist. It's the measure of a yarn typically in yards per pound (YPP) or meters per kilo. Things that impact Grist: Wraps Per Inch, Twist Angle, Drafting Style, Fiber, Finishing.

In color classes I often talk about "spinning to the grist" - getting the same yardage with the same weight of fiber. If you have ever had this happen, I hope you went and bought a lottery ticket, or celebrated in some way.

My most recent run-in with grist is attempting to use a McMorran Yarn Balance to estimate YPP of handspun. I do not recommend that, by the way - it has not proven reliable with my human-spun skeins. So, I put my handspun on my skeiner and then count the rounds, or run the whole skein through my yardage meter between swift and ballwinder.

The one YPP number I keep in my head is 1600 - the typical yardage for socks. With their tight twist angle of 35-40°, drafting style is less important. I aim for sock fiber to produce 100 yards per ounce, or 400 yards for a pair of socks. I've seen that number again and again no matter the blend.

For the same yardage and WPI, I can use weight to compare twist angle. Higher twist is denser, so I know if my 400 yards of 16 wraps per inch sock yarn is less than four ounces, I'm going to have socks that will wear out faster than 400 yards of the same WPI that weigh four or even five ounces. In fact, the five ounce skein would be super tough and have a pretty high twist angle.

I can also take a comparative guess at drafting style or fiber preparation with the same weight and WPI. The skein with more yardage is likely to have some woolen component, while the skein with less yardage is likely to have some worsted component. Worsted prep/draft lead to denser yarns, causing the same yardage to weight more than a skein with woolen prep and/or draft.

It amazes me how, even after spinning for decades, I still come up with ideas for experiments to hone my spinning knowledge. There's always something new to explore, be it tools, fibers, or the intricacies of spinning itself.

Other fun G's: garnetting (cutting yarn up and recarding it to make new yarns). This is how we get the recycled blue jean fiber that I love to blend with cotton.

Two questions:

  • Have you had the magic of spinning to the grist happen? Even within an arm's length is "close enough"!
  • What's your spinning G?

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© May 4, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/