Welcome back to the handspun judging series ... this is our fourth entry of five, and in it we will detail the Suitability category on the score card. If you've just found this series, start with part one: How is handspun yarn judged at fairs? and then read part two: How are Skein Appearance and Preparation Evaluated? and part three: How is Technique evaluated by a Fiber Arts Judge? before continuing on with this part. We've been working our way through the score card:
- General overall appearance.
- Preparation for exhibit — clean, properly skeined and tied, of listed yardage and/or weight, blocked if necessary.
- Suitability of fiber to yarn—amount of twist, diameter of yarn
- Technique — twist evenly executed, appropriate plying twist, diameter consistent throughout, structurally durable, yarn designs consistent, dyeing/blending consistent
- Suitability of yarn to use—direction of twist, amount of twist, diameter of yarn, handle of yarn, appropriate number of plies.
- Finished Execution – originality, creativity, complexity.
In this post we address the two Suitability categories. I can evaluate suitability of fiber to yarn without knowing the planned use. However, if the spinner hasn't told me what they intend to use the skein for, I usually have to make up a use for the yarn to evaluate it. Of course, being a kind judge, I make up a suitable use, and mention that in the evaluation. Do they end up making what I've evaluated it? I never do find out.
The third category is suitability of fiber to yarn. Often I skip over this one and do the fourth category first as it helps inform me for this category. So I've done the same on my blog.
After evaluating Technique, I am very familiar with the skein and can return to Suitability of Fiber to Yarn. In some ways this is driven by intended use as well - does the fiber suit that use? First, I look at amount of twist. Generally acceptable: low twist for knitted hats and scarves and weft and decorative yarns, high twist for socks and warp and durable yarns. You may see some cross-over, and when I see it I lean into what the spinner told me to look for justification.
Something that is never acceptable without clear justification in the notes: corkscrewing in the singles. This can occur in thick and thin yarn, as twist gathers in thin spots, making them likely to curl up in pigtails. Without careful monitoring, those pigtails may sneak into the plied yarn as well.
Second I look at diameter of yarn. Finer fibers are more suitable for finer yarns, however only the single need be fine - for example, I had a friend make a 6-ply of a merino/mink blend to get to a worsted weight yarn, where the 2-ply might have only been laceweight. Coarser fibers may be seeen in a variety of diameters, and work well for thicker singles. If the spinner hasn't stuck to this, then diameter plays against twist - a thicker single in fine wool needs more twist to hold together well. There is also Anne Field's notes on spinning to the crimp, where the crimp in wool drives yarn diamater. Finer fibers tend to have tighter crimp. (Her notes are explained in Spinning Wool: Beyond the Basics, an excellent book [affiliate link but at those prices, get it from your local spinning guild's library]).
It's a natural transition to move from suitability of fiber to yarn, to suitability of yarn to use.
Our fifth category is suitability of yarn to use. In premium books that don't require the entry to state intended use, or when the spinner failed to provide the information, this can be tricky. If the information is missing, I usually provide a recommendation in this space and then grade against that at a reduced level. There are several sub categories to evaluate here.
- Direction of twist - usually we spin Z, clockwise, and ply S, counter-clockwise. Knitting likes a final twist direction of counter-clockwise, though, so a cable yarn ought to be either spun the other direction or rough finished to avoid untwisting. Some techniques, like tvandstickning (twined knitting) want a final Z twist.
- Amount of twist - durable yarns need more twist. Soft puffy hats need low twist yarn.
- Diameter of yarn - socks need fine yarn; lace usually uses fine yarn. Scarves are usually thicker yarns, but if they have a pattern specified, then the yarn needs to be close in diameter (and fiber, and structure) that the commercial pattern uses. Luckily ravelry provides many of those details. Unluckily many county fairgrounds are in low- to no-cell signal zones. So I make a list to check during lunch, off-grounds.
- Handle of yarn - how does it feel? scratchy yarn as a scarf or hat is not good. Super soft easily destroyed fibers in loosely spun yarn is not good for socks.
- Appropriate number of plies - nalbinding with wool, a single is best but 2-ply is not uncommon; warp is usually plied, so a good reason must be supplied for a warp yarn that is a single; more complex structures need reasonable uses for them suggested.
Whew! At this point I am close to done on the form and beginning to come up with some general positive comments I can write on the bottom of the judging slip. I want to see more entries each year, and will encourage spinners to re-enter and perhaps to give additional categories a try as well.
This is being posted in July, and County Fair season is fast approaching ... are you entering? I'd love to hear what you are preparing or, if you are reading this in the fall, how things went.
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© July 6, 2026 by Ask The Bellwether, posted at http://askthebellwether.com/


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